⚡ Before You Go — Essentials
✈️ Getting There
Fly into Tokyo Narita (NRT) or Haneda (HND). Haneda is closer to the city center. Book a 21-day JR Pass — it pays for itself by Day 5.
🚄 Getting Around
Japan Rail Pass is your golden ticket. Covers all shinkansen (except Nozomi/Mizuho), JR local trains, and some buses. Get a Suica/Pasmo IC card for metros and convenience stores.
💴 Money
Japan is still partly cash-based, especially at temples, small restaurants, and rural areas. Withdraw yen from 7-Eleven ATMs (Visa/Mastercard accepted). Budget ¥15,000-25,000/day for two (meals, transport, attractions).
🌸 May Weather
Late spring: 18-25°C, occasional rain. Cherry blossoms are done but new green is stunning. Wisteria and azaleas in bloom. Pack layers and a compact umbrella.
📱 Connectivity
Grab a Ubigi eSIM or rent a pocket WiFi at the airport. Free WiFi exists but is unreliable. Google Maps works perfectly for navigation — download offline maps.
🏨 Accommodation Mix
Blend of business hotels (efficient, cheap), ryokan (traditional inns with onsen), and one temple stay. Book ryokan 2-3 months ahead — they sell out fast in spring.
Arrival & Shinjuku Immersion
Land at Narita/Haneda
Pick up your JR Pass at the airport exchange office. Take the Narita Express or monorail to Shinjuku. Check into hotel.
Omoide Yokochō (Memory Lane)
Squeeze into a 6-seat yakitori stall in this atmospheric alley of smoke and lanterns. Order everything the chef recommends.
Tsukiji, Ginza & Akihabara
Tsukiji Outer Market Crawl
The inner market moved to Toyosu but the outer market is where the magic lives. Eat your way through tamagoyaki, fresh uni, grilled scallops, and strawberry daifuku.
Ginza Stroll
Tokyo's upscale boulevard. Window-shop luxury brands, visit the massive Uniqlo flagship, or duck into the free Sony showroom.
Akihabara Electric Town
Multi-floor arcades, retro game shops, maid cafés, and anime everything. Even if you're not into otaku culture, the energy is wild.
Asakusa, Teamlab & Shibuya
Senso-ji Temple
Tokyo's oldest temple (628 AD). Walk through the iconic Kaminarimon gate, browse Nakamise-dōri for traditional snacks and souvenirs. Get there early to beat crowds.
teamLab Borderless (Azabudai Hills)
Immersive digital art that reacts to your movement. Plan 2-3 hours. Book tickets in advance — they sell out.
Shibuya Crossing & Scramble
Watch the world's busiest intersection from Starbucks above, then walk through it yourself. Pure Tokyo energy.
Nonbei Yokochō
Shibuya's hidden drinkard's alley — tiny bars seating 4-8 people. Pick one and make friends.
Harajuku, Meiji Shrine & Shimokitazawa
Meiji Jingū Shrine
Walk through the towering torii gate into a 170-acre forest in the heart of Tokyo. Serene, grounding, and massive. Write a wish on an ema board.
Takeshita Street & Harajuku
Kawaii culture ground zero — rainbow cotton candy, crepe shops, vintage stores. Wild people-watching.
Shimokitazawa Neighborhood Walk
Tokyo's coolest neighborhood. Vintage clothing shops, tiny cafés, vinyl record stores, and live music venues. Anti-Shibuya energy — relaxed, creative, local.
Day Trip: Nikkō — Mountains & Mausoleum
Tōshō-gū Shrine
Wildly ornate mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Gold leaf, intricate carvings, the famous 'see no evil' monkeys. Unlike anything else in Japan.
Rinnō-ji Temple & Taiyū-in
Less crowded than Tōshō-gū but equally stunning. The path through ancient cryptomeria trees is magical.
Kegon Falls
97-meter waterfall fed by Lake Chūzenji. Take the elevator down to the observation deck for the full force of it. One of Japan's top three waterfalls.
Hakone — Onsen & Open-Air Museum
Hakone Open-Air Museum
Stunning outdoor sculpture park with Picasso pavilion. Art set against mountain backdrops. One of Japan's best museums.
Hakone Tozan Railway
Switchback mountain railway through lush gorges. The journey IS the attraction.
Ōwakudani Volcanic Valley
Active sulfur vents, bubbling pools, and the famous black eggs boiled in volcanic hot springs (said to add 7 years to your life).
Lake Ashi Pirate Ship
Kitsch but fun — a pirate-themed ferry across the scenic lake with Fuji views on clear days.
Ryokan Stay with Private Onsen
Check into a traditional ryokan in Hakone-Yumoto or Gōra. Kaiseki dinner included — multi-course seasonal perfection. Soak in the private outdoor bath.
Hakone to Matsumoto — Alpine Castle Town
Shinkansen + Limited Express
Hakone → Odawara → Nagoya/Matsumoto route. About 3.5 hours total. JR Pass covers it all.
Matsumoto Castle
One of Japan's five original castles — the 'Crow Castle' with its striking black exterior against the Alps. Climb the steep stairs to the top for panoramic views.
Nawate-dōri & Nakamachi Streets
Charming merchant streets with sake breweries, craft shops, and frog statues everywhere (the frog is Matsumoto's mascot).
Takayama — Mountain Markets & Edo Streets
Miyagawa Morning Market
Riverside market where local farmers sell pickles, miso, crafts, and mountain vegetables. One of Japan's best morning markets — operating since the Edo period.
Jinya-mae Morning Market
Second morning market by the old government house. Smaller but equally charming.
Sanmachi Suji Historic District
Three streets of perfectly preserved Edo-era merchant houses. Sake breweries marked by sugidama (cedar balls), traditional crafts, and quiet beauty.
Higashiyama Walking Course
2km temple trail on the eastern hillside. 13 temples and shrines connected by a peaceful path through the forest.
Shirakawa-gō — Thatched-Roof Village
Nōhi Bus from Takayama
50-minute bus ride through stunning mountain scenery. Book the bus in advance — seats are limited.
Ogimachi Village Walk
UNESCO World Heritage gasshō-zukuri farmhouses with steep thatched roofs designed to handle heavy snow. Some are 250+ years old and still inhabited.
Wada House & Kanda House
Enter two of the largest farmhouses to see the ingenious multi-story interiors where families lived upstairs and silkworms were raised in the attic.
Bus to Kanazawa
75-minute bus to Kanazawa, the cultural gem of the Sea of Japan coast.
Kanazawa — Samurai & Seafood
Ōmichō Market
Kanazawa's kitchen — 200+ stalls of Sea of Japan seafood. Snow crab legs, uni, fat sweet shrimp, and kaisendon (seafood bowls).
Kenroku-en Garden
One of Japan's three great gardens. Meticulously landscaped ponds, streams, bridges, and teahouses. May means vivid green and irises.
Higashi Chaya District
Beautifully preserved geisha teahouse district. Wooden lattice buildings, gold leaf ice cream, and quiet elegance. Visit Shima teahouse (¥500) to go inside.
Nagamachi Samurai District
Earthen walls and samurai residences. Visit the Nomura Samurai House — its tiny garden was rated one of the top three in Japan by a US journal.
Kanazawa to Kyoto — Shinkansen & First Night
21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
Free zones with the famous 'Swimming Pool' installation by Leandro Erlich. Circular building with playful, accessible art.
Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kyoto
2.5 hours through mountain tunnels and rice paddies. Grab an ekiben (train bento) for the ride.
Pontocho Alley
Kyoto's most atmospheric dining lane — one person wide, lantern-lit, packed with restaurants overlooking the Kamo River. In May, outdoor terraces (kawadoko) open.
Gion Evening Walk
Wander through the geisha district at dusk. Wooden machiya townhouses, stone streets, and if you're lucky, a glimpse of a maiko (apprentice geisha).
Kyoto East — Fushimi Inari & Kiyomizu
Fushimi Inari Taisha
10,000 vermillion torii gates winding up Mt. Inari. Start by 6:30am to have the lower gates nearly to yourself. The full hike takes 2-3 hours round trip.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Iconic wooden stage jutting out over the hillside — built without a single nail. Stunning views over Kyoto. The approach streets (Ninenzaka, Sannenzaka) are beautiful.
Ninenzaka & Sannenzaka
Picturesque stone-paved lanes lined with tea houses, pottery shops, and traditional sweets. Very photogenic.
Kyoto West — Arashiyama & Zen Gardens
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
Walk through towering bamboo stalks that creak and sway overhead. Arrive by 7am for an empty path. The sound alone is worth it.
Iwatayama Monkey Park
Hike 20 minutes up the hill to hang out with 120 wild macaques with panoramic views of Kyoto. You're in THEIR space.
Tenryū-ji Temple
UNESCO World Heritage Zen temple with one of Japan's finest landscape gardens. The borrowed scenery of Arashiyama mountains is breathtaking.
Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)
The gold-leaf-covered pavilion reflected in its mirror pond. Iconic for a reason. Late afternoon light is best for photos.
Ryōan-ji Rock Garden
Japan's most famous zen rock garden — 15 stones in raked gravel. No matter where you sit, you can only see 14 at once. Meditative and profound.
Kyoto Deep Dive — Sake, Tea & Hidden Temples
Fushimi Sake Brewery Walk
Kyoto's brewing heartland — Gekkeikan, Kizakura, and smaller craft breweries along a canal lined with willows. Tastings everywhere.
Uji — Birthplace of Japanese Tea
20 minutes from Kyoto by train. The town where matcha culture began. Byōdō-in Temple (the one on the ¥10 coin) and tea shops everywhere.
Daitoku-ji Zen Compound
Complex of 20+ sub-temples, most hidden behind walls. Kōtō-in has a famous maple approach. Zuihō-in has a hidden Christian rock garden. Tourist-free zen.
Nara — Deer, Giant Buddha & Mochi
Nara Park & Deer
1,200+ sacred deer roam freely. Buy deer crackers (¥200) and bow to them — they bow back. Some are pushy, most are adorable.
Tōdai-ji Temple
Houses the world's largest bronze Buddha (15m tall) inside the world's largest wooden building. The scale is jaw-dropping even after photos.
Kasuga Taisha Shrine
3,000 stone and bronze lanterns line the path through a primeval forest. Twice a year they're all lit — but even unlit, it's magical.
Naramachi Old Town
Preserved merchant quarter with machiya townhouses converted into cafés, galleries, and mochi shops. Quieter and more charming than Kyoto's equivalents.
Osaka — Street Food Capital
Kuromon Market (Osaka's Kitchen)
Covered market with 170+ stalls. Graze through fresh uni, ōtoro tuna, grilled king crab legs, and tamagoyaki.
Dōtonbori Walk
Osaka's neon heart — the giant Glico running man, mechanical crab, and more takoyaki shops than you can count. Pure sensory overload.
Shinsekai & Tsūtenkaku
Retro Osaka at its most lovable. Kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) joints everywhere. No double-dipping in the communal sauce — that's the ONE rule.
Amerikamura & Ura-Namba
Osaka's cool neighborhoods. Amerikamura for vinyl and streetwear, Ura-Namba for hidden standing bars and yakitori joints.
Osaka Day 2 — Castle, Okonomiyaki & Whisky
Osaka Castle
Towering reconstructed castle surrounded by a massive park and moat. The museum inside covers Toyotomi Hideyoshi's rise. Best views from the outer walls.
Nakazakichō
Hidden neighborhood of converted prewar houses — now tiny cafés, vintage shops, and galleries. Osaka's most underrated area.
Okonomiyaki Masterclass
Osaka-style okonomiyaki (savory pancake) at Mizuno near Dōtonbori — Michelin-recognized, made right in front of you on a teppan.
Hiroshima & Miyajima Island
Shinkansen to Hiroshima
80 minutes from Osaka on the Sakura shinkansen. JR Pass covered.
Peace Memorial Park & Museum
Deeply moving. The museum, A-Bomb Dome, Children's Peace Monument, and eternal flame. Allow 2 hours minimum. It will change you.
Ferry to Miyajima
JR Ferry from Miyajimaguchi (covered by JR Pass). 10-minute ride to the sacred island.
Itsukushima Shrine & Floating Torii
The iconic vermillion torii gate 'floating' in the sea at high tide. At low tide, walk out to it. UNESCO World Heritage.
Mt. Misen Hike or Ropeway
Miyajima's sacred peak — wild deer, ancient forests, panoramic views of the Inland Sea. Ropeway + 30-min hike to summit, or full trail takes 90 min.
Naoshima — Art Island
Shinkansen to Okayama, then Ferry
Hiroshima → Okayama (40 min shinkansen), then bus to Uno Port, ferry to Naoshima (20 min). Arrive by late morning.
Benesse House Museum
Art museum designed by Tadao Ando, built into a hillside overlooking the Inland Sea. Monets, Hirsts, and site-specific installations in concrete perfection.
Chichu Art Museum
Built entirely underground to preserve the landscape. Three artists only: Monet, James Turrell, Walter De Maria. The Turrell light installation will stop you in your tracks.
Yayoi Kusama's Pumpkins
The yellow and red polka-dot pumpkin sculptures on the shore. Iconic. The yellow one was swept away by a typhoon and rebuilt — it's a symbol of resilience.
Art House Project (Honmura)
Abandoned houses in a fishing village transformed by artists into installations. Minamidera (James Turrell) is a pitch-black room that slowly reveals light. Life-changing.
Kōya-san — Temple Stay & Farewell
Naoshima → Kōya-san
Ferry back to Uno, train to Osaka/Namba, then Nankai Railway + cable car to Kōya-san. A journey, but the arrival is worth every minute.
Okunoin Cemetery Walk
2km path through Japan's largest cemetery — 200,000+ tombstones under ancient cedar trees. Moss-covered stone lanterns, corporate memorials from Toyota and Panasonic, and the mausoleum of Kōbō Daishi at the end. Profoundly peaceful.
Danjo Garan Sacred Complex
Stunning vermillion pagoda and temple complex — the center of Shingon Buddhism founded in 816 AD.
Overnight at a Shukubō
Sleep in a Buddhist temple — futons on tatami, shōjin ryōri (vegetarian monk cuisine) dinner and breakfast, optional 6am morning prayer chanting. The perfect ending to 20 days in Japan.
💰 Budget Breakdown
| Category | Item | Cost | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| JR Pass (21-day) | ¥72,140 (~$480) | Covers all shinkansen (except Nozomi) + JR locals | |
| Accommodation (avg) | ¥10,000-18,000/night | Mix of business hotels, ryokan, temple stay | |
| Food (per person/day) | ¥5,000-10,000 | Street food to mid-range restaurants | |
| Attractions | ¥500-3,800/site | Temples, museums, experiences | |
| Local Transport | ¥500-1,000/day | Metro, bus (beyond JR Pass coverage) | |
| Estimated Total (2 ppl, 20 days) | ¥700,000-1,100,000 | ~$4,700-7,400 USD (excluding flights) |
🎌 JR Pass Strategy
- Activate your 21-day JR Pass on Day 2 (after settling in Tokyo)
- Covers: all shinkansen except Nozomi/Mizuho, JR local trains, JR buses, Miyajima ferry
- NOT covered: private railways (Nankai to Kōya-san, Nōhi bus to Shirakawa-gō), metro systems
🏧 Cash & Cards
- Always carry ¥10,000-20,000 cash
- 7-Eleven and Post Office ATMs accept international cards
- Many restaurants are cash-only, especially in rural areas
- Konbini (convenience stores) are your best friend — great food, ATMs, everywhere
🚉 IC Cards
- Get a Suica or Pasmo card at any station
- Works on all metros, buses, konbini, vending machines, and coin lockers
- Load ¥5,000 at a time
🧳 Luggage Forwarding
- Use Yamato Transport (Kuroneko) to ship bags between cities
- ¥2,000-3,000 per bag, arrives next day
- Hotels and konbini handle it — game-changer for shinkansen days
🙇 Etiquette Quick Hits
- No tipping (ever)
- Quiet on trains
- Shoes off indoors
- Don't eat while walking (stand or sit)
- Cover tattoos at onsen
- Queue patiently — say 'sumimasen' for everything
📱 Useful Apps
- Google Maps — transit directions are perfect
- Navitime — backup transit app
- Tabelog — restaurant ratings (3.5+ is great)
- Google Translate — camera mode for menus