Japan Grand Tour: 23 Days From Neon to Zen: Tokyo to Hiroshima — temples, street food, onsen, and cherry blossoms for two

Arrive & Check Into Shinjuku

Land at Narita or Haneda and make your way to Shinjuku. If Narita, take the Narita Express (NEX) directly (¥3,250, ~90 min). From Haneda, the Keikyu Line or monorail gets you there in ~45 min. Check into your hotel, drop bags, freshen up. Grab a Suica card from any JR ticket machine if you didn't get one at the airport.

Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane)

Your first Tokyo meal should be iconic. Omoide Yokocho — aka Piss Alley (the name is worse than the place, promise) — is a maze of tiny yakitori stalls crammed next to Shinjuku Station. Squeeze onto a stool, point at the menu, order chicken skewers and cold draft beer. The smoke, the sizzle, the lanterns — this is the Tokyo moment.

Golden Gai Bar Crawl

Walk 5 minutes to Golden Gai — six narrow alleys packed with 200+ micro-bars, each seating maybe 6-8 people. Some have cover charges (¥500-1,000), some don't. Each has its own personality: jazz bars, horror bars, vinyl-only bars, bars run by retired punk rockers. Hop between 3-4 and let the night find its shape.

Senso-ji Temple & Nakamise-dori

Take the Ginza Line to Asakusa and start at Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) — the giant red lantern is unmistakable. Walk through Nakamise-dori, a 250-meter shopping street of traditional snacks, crafts, and souvenirs leading to Senso-ji, Tokyo's oldest and most visited Buddhist temple (founded 645 AD). Get there by 8am to avoid crowds.

Asakusa Backstreets & Hoppy Street

After Senso-ji, wander the backstreets west of the temple. Hoppy Street (Hoppy-dori) is a lively alley of outdoor izakayas that serves cheap drinks and beef stew even in the morning. The area around Kappabashi (Kitchen Town) has incredible restaurant supply shops — this is where Tokyo chefs buy their knives.

Akihabara — Electric Town

Take the Tsukuba Express or JR to Akihabara. Even if you're not an anime/gaming person, Akiba is a sensory experience worth having. Multi-story arcades, floors of gachapon machines, retro game shops, and electronics stores stretching to the sky. It's maximalist Tokyo at its most unhinged.

Ueno — Ameyoko Market & Dinner

Head to nearby Ueno and walk through Ameyoko Market, a bustling outdoor market under the JR tracks. It's chaotic, loud, and wonderful — fresh seafood, dried fruits, cheap clothes, and vendors yelling prices. Great for snacking and people-watching as the day winds down.

Meiji Shrine (Meiji Jingu)

Start early at Meiji Shrine, a Shinto shrine set in a 170-acre forest that feels impossibly peaceful given it's surrounded by Shibuya and Harajuku. Walk through the massive torii gates along the gravel path under towering camphor trees. If you're lucky, you might catch a traditional wedding procession.

Harajuku & Takeshita Street

Exit Meiji Shrine toward Harajuku and dive into Takeshita Street — a narrow lane exploding with wild fashion, crepe shops, colorful storefronts, and teens in every subculture imaginable. Then walk Cat Street for a more curated, design-forward vibe.

Shibuya Crossing & Shibuya Sky

Head to Shibuya for the scramble crossing — up to 3,000 people crossing simultaneously every light change. Just walk through it. Then go up to Shibuya Sky (rooftop observation deck on Shibuya Scramble Square) for insane 360° views of the city. On a clear day, you can see Mt. Fuji.

teamLab Borderless (Azabudai Hills)

teamLab Borderless is a mind-bending immersive digital art museum where projections flow across rooms, respond to your movement, and blur the boundary between art and viewer. The new Azabudai Hills location (opened 2024) is stunning. Book tickets in advance — they sell out.

Tsukiji Outer Market — Breakfast of Champions

The inner wholesale market moved to Toyosu, but Tsukiji Outer Market is still THE spot for street-food breakfast in Tokyo. Fresh sushi, tamagoyaki (sweet egg omelet), grilled seafood on sticks, and the best tuna you'll ever eat. Get there by 7:30am.

Ginza — Tokyo's Fifth Avenue

Walk south to Ginza, Tokyo's most elegant neighborhood. Even if high-end shopping isn't your thing, the architecture is incredible — Ginza Six, the Mikimoto building, and the iconic Wako clock tower. Stop into Itoya (stationery paradise, 12 floors) and the Uniqlo flagship.

Toyosu Market Tuna Auction Area (if time) or Tokyo Bay Cruise

If you booked ahead, the Toyosu Market tuna auction observation area opens early morning (you'd need to split this across days). Otherwise, take the Yurikamome line to the Odaiba waterfront for a sunset view of Rainbow Bridge and the Tokyo skyline. The Unicorn Gundam statue does a light show at dusk.

Train to Nikko & Shinkyo Bridge

Take the JR Shinkansen from Tokyo to Utsunomiya (~50 min), then transfer to the JR Nikko Line (~45 min). Alternatively, the Tobu Railway runs a direct limited express from Asakusa (~2 hrs). Start at the iconic Shinkyo Bridge — a sacred vermillion bridge over the Daiya River that marks the entrance to the shrine area.

Toshogu Shrine

The main event. Toshogu is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. It's the most elaborately decorated shrine in Japan — 5,000+ carvings covering every surface, including the famous "see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil" monkeys and the sleeping cat (Nemuri-neko). It's almost obscenely ornate and absolutely worth the trip.

Rinnoji Temple & Taiyuin Mausoleum

Continue through the shrine complex to Rinnoji Temple and the Taiyuin Mausoleum (Iemitsu's tomb). Taiyuin is less crowded than Toshogu but equally beautiful — and the forested approach through moss-covered stone lanterns is hauntingly peaceful.

Kegon Falls (Optional)

If time allows, take a bus to Kegon Falls (30 min from Nikko station area), one of Japan's three most famous waterfalls. A 97-meter drop into a gorge surrounded by forest. An elevator (¥570) takes you to an observation platform at the base.

Return to Tokyo

Head back to Tokyo the same way you came. The last JR train leaves Nikko around 7pm. You'll be tired — grab a conbini dinner and have a quiet night. Big travel day tomorrow to Hakone.

Romancecar to Hakone-Yumoto

Take the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku directly to Hakone-Yumoto (~85 min, reserved seats, big windows). This scenic limited express cuts through the mountains and drops you right at the gateway to Hakone. From here, start the famous Hakone Loop.

Hakone Tozan Railway & Switchbacks

From Hakone-Yumoto, take the Hakone Tozan Railway — a mountain train that zigzags up through steep switchbacks and hydrangea-lined tracks. It's a gorgeous ride. Get off at Gora, the upper terminus.

Owakudani Volcanic Valley

From Gora, take the cable car then ropeway up to Owakudani — an active volcanic area with steaming sulfur vents, bubbling pools, and surreal moonscape terrain. The famous kuro-tamago (black eggs) boiled in volcanic sulfur springs are said to add 7 years to your life. Eat one.

Lake Ashi Pirate Ship Cruise

Continue the loop by ropeway down to Togendai, then board a pirate ship (yes, literally a pirate ship) across Lake Ashi to Hakone-machi. On clear days, the reflection of Mt. Fuji in the lake is the postcard shot of Japan.

Check Into Ryokan & Onsen Soak

Check into your ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) for the night. Put on the provided yukata (cotton robe), explore the tatami-mat room, and head to the onsen. Most Hakone ryokan have both indoor and rotenburo (outdoor) hot spring baths. Soak under the stars.

Ryokan Breakfast & Morning Onsen

Wake up to a traditional Japanese breakfast at the ryokan — grilled fish, miso soup, rice, pickles, tamagoyaki, natto (if you're brave), and green tea. Then hit the onsen one more time. Morning baths hit different — steam rising in the cool mountain air.

Hakone Open Air Museum

One of the best museums in Japan, period. A vast outdoor sculpture garden with works by Picasso, Henry Moore, and Japanese masters, set against the Hakone mountains. The Picasso Pavilion alone has 300+ works. The foot onsen inside the museum lets you soak your feet while surrounded by art.

Travel to Takayama

This is a longer transit day. Take the Romancecar back to Odawara, then Shinkansen to Nagoya (~70 min), then JR Wide View Hida limited express to Takayama (~2.5 hrs). Total: ~5 hours. The Hida express ride through the mountains is beautiful — sit on the right side for valley views. Alternatively, overnight in Nagoya and continue in the morning.

Miyagawa Morning Market

The Miyagawa Morning Market runs along the river every day from 6am to noon. Local farmers sell pickles, miso, mountain vegetables, mochi, and crafts. It's small, charming, and the kind of authentic local experience that makes a trip. Try the mitarashi dango (grilled rice dumplings with sweet soy glaze).

Sanmachi Suji (Old Town)

Walk through Sanmachi Suji, Takayama's beautifully preserved merchant district. Dark wooden buildings from the Edo period line narrow streets, now housing sake shops, senbei makers, small museums, and craft studios. Look for the sugidama (cedar ball) hanging outside — it marks a sake brewery.

Sake Brewery Hopping

Takayama has 7 sake breweries in a compact area, and most offer tastings. The water from the Japanese Alps makes Takayama sake distinctively clean and crisp. Visit 2-3 breweries — Funasaka and Harada are the most visitor-friendly with English info.

Takayama Jinya (Government House)

The only remaining Edo-era government outpost in Japan. Beautifully restored with tatami rooms, a rice storehouse, and a traditional garden. The audio guide is well done and gives real insight into how local governance worked during the shogunate.

Hida Beef Dinner

Tonight is the Hida beef experience. This local wagyu is marbled, tender, and significantly cheaper than Kobe beef. Try it grilled on a magnolia leaf with miso (hoba miso) — a Takayama signature. Pair with local sake.

Bus to Shirakawa-go

Take the Nohi Bus from Takayama Bus Terminal to Shirakawa-go (~50 min, ¥2,600 one-way). Reserve your bus seat in advance at nouhibus.co.jp — they fill up, especially in winter/early spring. The drive through the mountains and tunnels is scenic.

Shirakawa-go Village Walk

Walk through the village at your own pace. The main street has about 60 preserved gassho-zukuri houses, some open as museums, some as guesthouses, some as shops and cafés. Enter Wada House (the largest, ¥300) or Kanda House to see the multi-story interiors where silk farming happened on upper floors.

Shiroyama Viewpoint

Climb (or take the shuttle) to the Shiroyama Observatory above the village. This is THE viewpoint — the classic photo of Shirakawa-go with all the thatched roofs nestled in the valley surrounded by mountains. On a clear day with snow, it's staggering.

Return to Takayama & Onward Travel

Take the afternoon bus back to Takayama (~50 min). From Takayama, you'll head to Kanazawa tomorrow. If you prefer, you can take a direct bus from Shirakawa-go to Kanazawa (~75 min, Nohi Bus) and skip returning to Takayama. Check your luggage forwarding plan.

Last Night in Takayama

If you return to Takayama, enjoy one more evening stroll through the old town. The streets empty out by 6pm and the paper lanterns give everything a warm glow. Find a small izakaya for local food and drinks.

Travel to Kanazawa & Omicho Market

Take the JR Hokuriku Shinkansen from Takayama (via Toyama) to Kanazawa, or the Nohi Bus if coming direct. Drop bags at the hotel and head straight to Omicho Market — Kanazawa's 300-year-old "Kitchen of Kanazawa." The seafood here rivals Tsukiji — Kanazawa's proximity to the Sea of Japan means everything is impossibly fresh.

Kenroku-en Garden

One of Japan's three great gardens. Kenroku-en is stunningly landscaped across 25 acres with ponds, streams, waterfalls, bridges, teahouses, and 8,750 trees. In early March, the yukitsuri (snow ropes) protecting the trees may still be up — they're an art form in themselves. Plum blossoms might be blooming.

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

Right next to Kenroku-en, this Pritzker Prize-winning circular glass building is one of Japan's best contemporary art museums. The famous "Swimming Pool" by Leandro Erlich lets you look down through a glass ceiling at people who appear to be underwater. Brilliant, playful architecture.

Higashi Chaya District & Ninja Temple

Walk through Higashi Chaya, Kanazawa's beautifully preserved geisha district. The wooden machiya (townhouses) with latticed windows and paper lanterns look almost identical to how they did in the Edo period. Stop into Kaikaro, a restored geisha teahouse you can tour, or buy gold leaf ice cream (Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan's gold leaf).

Train to Kyoto

Take the JR Thunderbird limited express from Kanazawa to Kyoto (~2.5 hrs). This scenic ride crosses the northern coast before cutting through the mountains into the Kyoto basin. Check into your hotel in the central Kawaramachi/Gion area for walkability.

Fushimi Inari Taisha

The most iconic sight in Japan, and for good reason. 10,000 vermillion torii gates snake up a mountain in an unbroken tunnel of orange. The full hike to the summit takes 2-3 hours, but the most photographed sections are in the first 30 minutes. Go in the afternoon when tour groups thin out, or come back at dawn tomorrow for empty trails.

Gion District at Dusk

Head to Gion, Kyoto's most famous geisha (geiko/maiko) district. As evening falls, the wooden machiya teahouses light up with paper lanterns, and you might spot a maiko (apprentice geisha) in full kimono hurrying to an engagement. Walk Hanami-koji Street, cross the Shirakawa Canal, and soak in the atmosphere.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (Early Morning)

Get here by 7:30am — this is non-negotiable. By 9am it's a wall of tourists and selfie sticks and the magic evaporates. At dawn, the light filters through the towering bamboo stalks and the only sound is the wind through the grove. It's genuinely transcendent.

Tenryu-ji Temple

Right at the edge of the bamboo grove, Tenryu-ji is a UNESCO World Heritage Zen temple with one of Kyoto's finest landscape gardens. The borrowed scenery (shakkei) technique incorporates the Arashiyama mountains into the garden design, so the temple feels infinite.

Iwatayama Monkey Park

Hike up to the monkey park (20 min uphill walk from the main bridge) where 120+ wild macaques roam freely with panoramic views of Kyoto below. You can feed them from inside a mesh hut (they're outside, you're inside — clever design). The views alone are worth the climb.

Togetsukyo Bridge & Sagano Stroll

Cross the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge (Moon Crossing Bridge), a 1,000-year-old structure spanning the Hozu River with mountains as a backdrop. Then wander the quieter Sagano area north of the bamboo grove — thatched-roof houses, rice paddies, and temples without crowds.

Nishiki Market & Downtown Kyoto

Head back to central Kyoto and walk through Nishiki Market, a 400-year-old covered food market called "Kyoto's Kitchen." Try pickled vegetables, matcha everything, dashi samples, mochi, and Kyoto-style sweets. Then stroll the covered Shinkyogoku and Teramachi shopping arcades.

Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion)

The top two floors of this Zen temple are literally covered in gold leaf, and the reflection in the surrounding pond on a still morning is one of the most photographed images in Japan. Arrive by 9am (opens at 9) to beat tour groups. Your "ticket" is a calligraphic charm — keep it as a souvenir.

Ryoan-ji Temple

A 10-minute walk or short bus from Kinkaku-ji. Ryoan-ji has Japan's most famous rock garden — 15 rocks in raked white gravel, arranged so you can never see all 15 from any single viewpoint. Sit on the wooden veranda and stare at it for 20 minutes. The garden changes the longer you look.

Philosopher's Path (Tetsugaku no Michi)

A 2km stone path along a cherry-tree-lined canal connecting Ginkaku-ji to Nanzen-ji. Named for the philosopher Nishida Kitaro who meditated while walking it daily. In late March, the cherry trees will be in early bud — not full bloom, but the bare branches have their own beauty. Small temples, cafés, and cat cafes dot the route.

Nanzen-ji Temple

At the southern end of the Philosopher's Path, Nanzen-ji is a massive Zen temple complex. The enormous Sanmon gate offers sweeping views of Kyoto (climb it for ¥600). Behind the temple, a brick Roman-style aqueduct (Suirokaku) from the Meiji era creates a surreal contrast with the ancient surroundings.

Tea Ceremony Experience

Book an authentic tea ceremony (chado) experience. Camellia Garden in Gion or En near Kenninji Temple offer intimate sessions (60-90 min) where you learn the ritual preparation of matcha, the meaning behind each movement, and the philosophy of ichi-go ichi-e (one moment, one meeting).

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

One of Kyoto's most celebrated temples, built on a massive wooden platform jutting out from a hillside with sweeping views of the city. The phrase "jumping off the stage at Kiyomizu" is the Japanese equivalent of "taking the plunge." Founded in 778 AD and rebuilt without a single nail. Arrive by 6am opening to have it nearly to yourself.

Ninenzaka & Sannenzaka (Preserved Streets)

Walk down from Kiyomizu-dera through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka — stone-paved lanes lined with traditional wooden shops, teahouses, and small temples. These streets haven't changed much in centuries. Stop for matcha soft serve, pick up ceramic souvenirs, and just soak in the old Kyoto atmosphere.

Yasaka Shrine & Maruyama Park

Continue through Higashiyama to Yasaka Shrine at the eastern end of Shijo Street, then into Maruyama Park behind it. The park's weeping cherry tree is Kyoto's most famous single tree (though it won't bloom until early April). The park is lovely for a peaceful stroll.

Kyoto Kimono Experience (Optional)

Rent a kimono and walk through Higashiyama dressed in traditional attire. Multiple rental shops (Okamoto, Yumeyakata) offer full dress-up with hair styling for ¥3,000-5,000 per person for a full day. You'll blend right in with the old streets.

Sake Tasting in Fushimi

End your Kyoto days with sake. The Fushimi district (south of central Kyoto) is one of Japan's top sake-producing areas thanks to its pristine water. Gekkeikan Okura Museum (¥600, includes tasting) and the Kizakura Kappa Country brewery offer tastings and tours.

Train to Nara & Deer Park

Take the Kintetsu Limited Express from Kyoto to Nara (~35 min) or JR Nara Line (~45 min, covered by JR Pass). Walk from the station into Nara Park where 1,000+ sika deer roam freely. Buy shika-senbei (deer crackers, ¥200) and watch them literally bow to you for food. It never gets old.

Todai-ji Temple & Great Buddha

Todai-ji houses the Daibutsu — a 15-meter-tall bronze Buddha that's been sitting here since 752 AD. The wooden hall housing it (Daibutsuden) is the largest wooden building in the world, and it's only two-thirds the size of the original. The scale is staggering even in photos, and in person it's genuinely awe-inspiring.

Kasuga Taisha Shrine

Walk through Nara Park to Kasuga Taisha, a Shinto shrine famous for its hundreds of stone lanterns lining the approach and thousands of bronze lanterns hanging inside. The shrine is set in a primeval forest and feels genuinely ancient and otherworldly.

Naramachi (Old Merchant District)

Wander through Naramachi, Nara's charming old merchant quarter with narrow lanes, converted machiya houses, small galleries, and traditional sweets shops. It's quieter and more local than the temple area.

Return to Kyoto & Pack for Koyasan

Head back to Kyoto by 6pm. Pack light for tomorrow — Koyasan is a mountain temple town and you'll only need one night's worth. Send other luggage via takkyubin to your Osaka hotel.

Travel to Koyasan

From Kyoto, take the JR to Osaka (Namba), then the Nankai-Koya Line limited express to Gokurakubashi (~90 min), then a cable car up the mountain (5 min). Total journey: ~3-3.5 hours. The cable car ascent through the forest is dramatic. You arrive in another world.

Check Into Shukubo & Explore Koyasan Town

Check into your temple lodge. Recommended: Ekoin (offers night cemetery tour and morning fire ceremony) or Fukuchiin (beautiful garden, great food). Change into the provided yukata and explore the small temple town. Visit the Kongobuji head temple and the Danjo Garan sacred precinct.

Danjo Garan Sacred Precinct

The spiritual heart of Koyasan. The vermillion Konpon Daito pagoda is the symbol of Koyasan — step inside to see a mandala of Buddhist statues. The complex includes multiple halls, the oldest dating to the 9th century.

Okunoin Cemetery Night Walk

The single most atmospheric experience in Japan. A 2km path through 200,000 moss-covered tombstones and memorial pagodas under towering 600-year-old cedar trees, leading to the mausoleum of Kukai (Kobo Daishi). At night, stone lanterns cast flickering light through the forest. Ekoin temple offers guided night tours. Even without a guide, walking Okunoin at dusk is transcendent.

Morning Fire Ceremony (Goma)

Wake at 6am for the goma fire ceremony in your shukubo's main hall. Monks chant sutras while burning wooden prayer sticks in a sacred fire. The combination of flickering flames, ancient chanting, incense smoke, and the cold mountain air is profoundly moving. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Travel to Osaka

After breakfast, check out and take the cable car down, then Nankai Koya Line back to Osaka Namba (~2.5 hrs total). Check into your Osaka hotel — stay near Namba or Shinsaibashi for maximum food access.

Dotonbori — Welcome to Food Paradise

Dotonbori is sensory overload. Giant mechanical signs (the running Glico Man, the moving crab), neon lights reflected in the canal, and more food stalls and restaurants per square meter than anywhere on earth. This is where you start your Osaka food marathon. Try takoyaki (octopus balls), okonomiyaki (savory pancake), and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers).

Kuromon Market

Osaka's 170-year-old "Kitchen" — a covered market packed with seafood, street food, and ingredients. The stalls here are more raw and real than Tsukiji. Try the fatty tuna sashimi, grilled king crab legs, and fresh uni cups. Vendors grill everything to order.

Osaka Castle

Osaka Castle is Japan's most famous castle, rebuilt in concrete but still impressive with its 8 floors and surrounding moat. The museum inside covers Toyotomi Hideyoshi's history. The real attraction is the expansive castle park — one of Osaka's top cherry blossom spots (trees may be budding in late March).

Shinsekai — Retro Osaka

Shinsekai ("New World") is Osaka's gloriously retro entertainment district, built in 1912 and looking like it hasn't changed since. The Tsutenkaku Tower looms over a maze of kushikatsu joints, game arcades, and neon signs. This is where you eat kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers) — Osaka's quintessential comfort food.

Amerikamura & Shinsaibashi

Osaka's youth fashion district (Amerikamura / Amemura) and the long Shinsaibashi shopping arcade make for a fun evening stroll. Vintage shops, street art, and the Triangle Park area have a laid-back, creative energy. End at Dotonbori for round two.

Umeda Sky Building — Floating Garden Observatory

Two towers connected by a "floating" circular observatory 173 meters up. The open-air rooftop has 360° views of Osaka, and the basement has Takimi Koji — a recreated 1920s Osaka street food alley. The architecture itself is stunning — escalators through glass tubes connecting the towers.

Nakazakicho — Hidden Café Neighborhood

A 10-minute walk from Umeda, Nakazakicho is a quiet residential area where old wooden houses have been converted into quirky cafés, vintage shops, and tiny galleries. It's completely off the tourist radar and feels like discovering a secret. Wander with no agenda.

Osaka Food Tour — The Final Round

Back to the food streets for everything you haven't tried yet. Hit up the yakitori stalls under the Shinbashi tracks, try the gyoza at Horai (Dotonbori), and grab a Rikuro's cheesecake if you didn't yesterday. This is your last shot at Osaka's street food glory.

Farewell Osaka Dinner

For your last Osaka night, treat yourselves. Hajime Teppanyaki in Namba does incredible teppanyaki with seats around the iron grill. Or go full local and do a horumon (offal) yakiniku place in Tsuruhashi — Osaka's Korean BBQ district.

Shinkansen to Hiroshima

Take the Sanyo Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Hiroshima (~80 min on the Nozomi, or ~100 min on the Sakura/Hikari which is covered by JR Pass). Check into your hotel near the Peace Memorial Park area.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park & Museum

The Peace Memorial Museum was completely renovated and is devastating, educational, and essential. Personal artifacts, survivor testimonies, and detailed accounts of August 6, 1945. Outside, the A-Bomb Dome (Genbaku Dome) — the only building left standing near the hypocenter — is preserved exactly as it was after the blast. The Children's Peace Monument with its thousands of paper cranes is deeply moving.

Shukkeien Garden & Hiroshima Evening

If you need a peaceful counterpoint after the museum, visit Shukkeien — a beautiful Edo-era garden that was destroyed in the bombing and painstakingly restored. It's a symbol of Hiroshima's resilience. Then walk along the river as the city lights up.

Ferry to Miyajima Island

Take the JR train from Hiroshima to Miyajimaguchi Station (~25 min), then the JR ferry to Miyajima Island (~10 min, covered by JR Pass). As the ferry approaches, the massive torii gate comes into view — one of those moments that makes you catch your breath.

Itsukushima Shrine & Floating Torii

The shrine complex is built on stilts over the water, with covered corridors connecting the halls. At high tide, the entire shrine and the famous torii gate appear to float. At low tide, you can walk across the tidal flat to the base of the torii. Both are magical in different ways. The shrine dates to 593 AD.

Mt. Misen Hike or Ropeway

Take the Miyajima Ropeway up Mt. Misen (535m) for panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea and surrounding islands. From the upper station, a 30-min hike reaches the summit. Or hike the full Momijidani trail (2-3 hrs up) through ancient forest with wild monkeys.

Miyajima Town & Omotesando Shopping Street

The small town on Miyajima has a charming shopping street (Omotesando) with local crafts, shamoji (rice paddle) souvenirs — Miyajima is famous for them — and the star attraction: grilled oysters and momiji manju (maple leaf-shaped cakes).

Sunset at the Torii & Return to Hiroshima

If the timing works with the tides, sunset behind the floating torii gate is unforgettable. The crowds thin out dramatically after 4pm as day-trippers leave. Stay for the magic hour, then take the ferry back. Last ferry is ~10pm.

Shinkansen to Tokyo

Take the Sanyo/Tokaido Shinkansen from Hiroshima all the way back to Tokyo (~4 hrs on Hikari, covered by JR Pass). Sit on the right side (seats E/D) for a chance to see Mt. Fuji between Nagoya and Shin-Yokohama on a clear day. Grab an ekiben for the ride.

Cherry Blossom Scouting — Ueno Park

Ueno Park is Tokyo's most famous cherry blossom spot, with 800+ trees along the main path. By March 25, early-blooming varieties (Kawazu-zakura, Okame) should be in bloom, and the main Somei Yoshino trees may be showing their first pink buds. Even if it's pre-bloom, the park is beautiful and there's hanami energy building.

Meguro River (Early Blossom Walk)

Meguro River is Tokyo's most beautiful cherry blossom spot — 800+ trees lining both sides of the canal for nearly 4 km. If the blossoms have started (varies by year), this walk with pink petals reflecting in the water is absolute magic. Even without full bloom, the cafés and shops along the river are lovely.

Farewell Dinner — Splurge Night

This is it. Twenty-two days across Japan deserve a proper farewell. Book something special: Ginza sushi omakase, a Roppongi teppanyaki counter, or a private kaiseki room. You've earned it. Alternatively, do a full circle and end at Omoide Yokocho where it all began.

Last Morning Rituals

Sleep in or wake up early for one last Tokyo morning. Grab coffee and an egg sandwich from the conbini. Take a final walk around your neighborhood. If you're near Ueno, check the cherry blossoms one more time. Buy any last-minute souvenirs — Japanese KitKats, matcha snacks, and Tokyo Banana are classic airport gifts.

Head to Airport

Give yourself 3 hours before your flight. Narita Express (NEX) from major stations (~90 min to Narita). If flying from Haneda, the Keikyu Line or monorail takes ~40 min. Spend leftover yen at the airport — duty-free has excellent Japanese whisky, snacks, and last-minute gifts.