Belgrade's best kafanas offer a taste of Serbian tradition, with prices ranging from 600–2,500 RSD ($5–$23); for the best experience, start with Kafana Pavle Korcagin, a local favorite known for its generous portions and low prices. Whether you're seeking rakija, live folk music, or hearty Serbian cuisine, these unfiltered recommendations will guide you to the heart of Belgrade's kafana culture.
When the Ottomans conquered Belgrade in 1521, they brought coffee — and with it, the kafana. For five centuries, these traditional taverns have served as the commercial and social heart of the city, where Belgraders discuss politics, celebrate weddings, mourn losses, and dance until dawn to the sounds of Serbian folk music.
We combed through Reddit threads on r/Belgrade, r/AskSerbia, r/AskBalkans, and r/travel, cross-referenced with Lonely Planet, The Guardian, and local guides to find where actual Belgraders and serious travelers eat and drink. These 12 kafane represent the best of Belgrade's tavern culture — from Ottoman-era institutions to Yugoslav-nostalgia time capsules.
💰 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14)
📍 Ćirila i Metodija 2a, Beograd 11000
📌 Google Maps →
🕐 Hours
Mon8:00 AM – 1:00 AMTue8:00 AM – 1:00 AMWed8:00 AM – 1:00 AMThu8:00 AM – 1:00 AMFri8:00 AM – 1:00 AMSat8:00 AM – 1:00 AMSun11:00 AM – 11:00 PM
What to order: Kafana Pavle Korcagin, a local favorite at Ćirila i Metodija 2a, Beograd 11000, offers enormous portions at shockingly low prices, typically between 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14). What to order: Ćevapi with kajmak and somun bread, pljeskavica, and house rakija.
"Pavle Korcagin has the best ćevapi in Belgrade, hands down. 4.8 stars with nearly 18,000 reviews tells you everything."
— TripAdvisor · Top Eastern European restaurants in Belgrade, 2025
"This is the kind of place where locals go for a proper kafana meal — big portions, great grill, no pretense."
— r/Belgrade · Eating Belgrade thread, 2025
tabiji verdict: The highest-rated kafana in Belgrade with a staggering 17,000+ reviews. A neighborhood institution that draws locals from across the city for its exceptional grill and rock-bottom prices.
🕐 Hours
Mon11:00 AM – 2:00 AMTue11:00 AM – 2:00 AMWed11:00 AM – 2:00 AMThu11:00 AM – 2:00 AMFri11:00 AM – 2:00 AMSat11:00 AM – 2:00 AMSun11:00 AM – 2:00 AM
What to order: Tri šešira, a Skadarlija icon located at Skadarska 29, Beograd 11000, charges between 1,000–2,000 RSD ($9–$18) for a memorable dining experience. What to order: Karađorđeva šnicla (breaded rolled veal stuffed with kajmak) and the mixed grill platter. Order the house wine and let the tamburaši serenade you.
"Tri šešira has been hosting famous Serbian actors, writers and artists since 1864. The black-and-white photographs on the walls tell the story."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
"If you only do one Skadarlija kafana, make it Tri šešira — the food is better than Dva Jelena and the atmosphere is more authentic."
— r/AskSerbia · Best kafana with live music thread, 2025
tabiji verdict: Operating since 1864, Three Hats is Skadarlija's most beloved kafana. The food quality has remained consistently high despite the tourist traffic, and the evening tamburaši musicians are the real deal.
🕐 Hours
Mon10:00 AM – 1:00 AMTue10:00 AM – 1:00 AMWed10:00 AM – 1:00 AMThu10:00 AM – 1:00 AMFri10:00 AM – 1:00 AMSat10:00 AM – 1:00 AMSun10:00 AM – 1:00 AM
What to order: Dva Jelena, a Skadarlija legend at Skadarska 32, Beograd 11000, serves traditional Serbian fare for 1,000–2,000 RSD ($9–$18). What to order: The mixed meat platter for two, mućkalica (spicy stew), and a carafe of house red wine. Save room for tufahije (baked apples).
"Dva Jelena has been operating since 1832. Its main rooms retain the elegance of early 20th-century Belgrade with art-nouveau murals, dark wooden panels and repurposed gaslights."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
"The legendary singer Toma Zdravković used to roam from table to table here in the 1980s. Now he's cast in bronze as a statue on Skadarlija."
— The Guardian · Belgrade's kafana pub culture, 2023
tabiji verdict: Belgrade's most famous kafana, operating since 1832. Two Deer is the grand dame of Skadarlija — art-nouveau murals, candlelit evenings, and a legacy that includes every major Serbian cultural figure of the last two centuries.
💰 900–1,800 RSD ($8–$16)
📍 Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 122, Beograd 11000
📌 Google Maps →
🕐 Hours
Mon9:00 AM – 12:00 AMTue9:00 AM – 12:00 AMWed9:00 AM – 12:00 AMThu9:00 AM – 12:00 AMFri9:00 AM – 12:00 AMSat9:00 AM – 12:00 AMSun9:00 AM – 12:00 AM
What to order: Orašac, a neighborhood gem at Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 122, Beograd 11000, offers a taste of Serbia and the former Yugoslavia for 900–1,800 RSD ($8–$16). What to order: The Serbian grill platter, cherry pie, and baklava. Also try dishes from other ex-Yugoslav countries like gravče na tavče (Macedonian baked beans).
"Kafana Orašac for a great and authentic kafana experience without the touristy Skadarlija crap."
— r/Belgrade · Eating Belgrade thread, 2025
"Popular for its huge garden when the weather is nice, Orašac has a delightfully cozy interior with two fireplaces and separate rooms for smokers and non-smokers — a rarity in Belgrade."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
tabiji verdict: The locals' antidote to touristy Skadarlija. Orašac sits in an art-nouveau building with a massive garden, two fireplaces, and a menu that stretches across the entire former Yugoslavia.
💰 900–1,800 RSD ($8–$16)
📍 Velike stepenice 1, Beograd 11000
📌 Google Maps →
🕐 Hours
Mon9:00 AM – 12:00 AMTue9:00 AM – 12:00 AMWed9:00 AM – 12:00 AMThu9:00 AM – 12:00 AMFri9:00 AM – 12:00 AMSat9:00 AM – 12:00 AMSun9:00 AM – 12:00 AM
What to order: Kafana SFRJ, a Yugoslav nostalgia trip at Velike stepenice 1, Beograd 11000, provides an atmospheric experience for 900–1,800 RSD ($8–$16). What to order: Any Serbian grill dish, draft beer, and rakija. The food is secondary to the atmosphere — soak in the Tito memorabilia and the Danube views.
"We found Kafana SFRJ to be a great 'traditional' Serbian experience. The decor is very old and the restaurant looks like what you would imagine 1970s Yugoslavia."
— TripAdvisor · Kafana SFRJ review, 2024
"At SFRJ, a Yugoslav paraphernalia-filled restaurant overlooking the Danube, the band plays Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian folk songs on request, and Yugoslav hits from the 70s."
— The Guardian · Belgrade's kafana pub culture, 2023
tabiji verdict: A time capsule of Tito-era Yugoslavia with Danube River views. The weekend live bands playing Bosnian, Croatian, and Serbian folk songs bring older locals to tears — literally.
🕐 Hours
Mon8:00 AM – 12:00 AMTue8:00 AM – 12:00 AMWed8:00 AM – 12:00 AMThu8:00 AM – 12:00 AMFri8:00 AM – 12:00 AMSat8:00 AM – 12:00 AMSun10:00 AM – 8:00 PM
What to order: Stara Hercegovina, a Balkan heritage spot at Carigradska 36, Beograd, offers a taste of Herzegovina for 800–1,600 RSD ($7–$15). What to order: Raštan (slow-cooked cabbage with meat from Herzegovina), zubački cheese in oil, and žilavka white wine from Bosnia. Draft beer on the outdoor benches.
"Stara Hercegovina honors the wider Balkan heritage — try raštan or zubački cheese in oil, along with the famous žilavka white wine, all hailing from neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovina."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
tabiji verdict: A love letter to Bosnian and Herzegovinian cuisine in Belgrade. The outdoor wooden benches, draft beer, and cross-border specialties you won't find at other kafane make this a unique stop.
🕐 Hours
MonClosedTue1:00 – 11:00 PMWed1:00 – 11:00 PMThu1:00 – 11:00 PMFri1:00 – 11:00 PMSat1:00 – 11:00 PMSun12:30 – 6:00 PM
What to order: Klub književnika, a literary club at Francuska 7, Beograd 11000, serves elevated Serbian cuisine for 1,200–2,500 RSD ($11–$23). What to order: Elevated Serbian cuisine — expect refined versions of classics. The wine list is excellent. Perfect for a more upscale kafana dinner.
"Klub književnika (Writers' Club) is one of the most elegant kafane in Belgrade — where literary figures have gathered since the mid-20th century."
— Wanderlog · Best kafanas in Belgrade, 2024
tabiji verdict: Belgrade's literary elite have gathered here for decades. More refined than a typical kafana — think polished wood, white tablecloths, and a menu that elevates Serbian classics. Closed Mondays.
🕐 Hours
Mon12:00 – 9:00 PMTue12:00 – 9:00 PMWed12:00 – 9:00 PMThu12:00 – 9:00 PMFri10:00 AM – 10:00 PMSat10:00 AM – 10:00 PMSun10:00 AM – 10:00 PM
What to order: Znak Pitanja (?), the oldest kafana at Kralja Petra 6, Beograd 11000, offers a historic dining experience for 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14). What to order: Turkish coffee with ratluk (Turkish delight) is mandatory here. For food, the house-specialty mućkalica (spicy stew) served in a bread bowl.
"Belgrade's oldest standing kafana, dating from 1823. The quizzical name is the result of a dispute with the church across the road, which objected to the tavern's original name, 'By the Cathedral.'"
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
"Avoid this kafana, classic tourist trap. Bad food and overpriced."
— r/AskBalkans · What would you recommend ordering at a Kafana thread, 2025
tabiji verdict: Belgrade's oldest surviving kafana (1823) is a must-visit for the history alone — Ottoman-era interiors, low wooden stools, and Turkish coffee served the traditional way. Locals warn it's increasingly touristy, but the experience is still unique.
🕐 Hours
Mon9:00 AM – 11:00 PMTue9:00 AM – 11:00 PMWed9:00 AM – 11:00 PMThu9:00 AM – 11:00 PMFri9:00 AM – 11:00 PMSat9:00 AM – 11:00 PMSun12:00 – 7:00 PM
What to order: Srpska Kafana, a theater crowd favorite at Svetogorska 25, Beograd 11000, offers classic Serbian dishes for 800–1,400 RSD ($7–$13). What to order: Ćevapi with kajmak, grilled meats, and šopska salata. The elderly waiters in white shirts serve it all with practiced efficiency.
"'Srpska kafana' and 'Mornar' are traditional restaurants that are close to the Historical Museum. For a bit fancier Serbian food try 'Dragoljub'."
— r/Belgrade · Good authentic restaurants in Belgrade, 2025
"At Srpska Kafana we tuck into juicy ćevapi and grilled meats slathered in melting kajmak served by elderly waiters in timeless white shirts and black waistcoats."
— The Guardian · Belgrade's kafana pub culture, 2023
tabiji verdict: The watering hole for actors from the Atelje 212 theater next door. Famous for a legendary story about Serbian actor Zoran Radmilović sitting by the toilet when the place was full — and entertaining everyone with impressions.
🕐 Hours
Mon9:30 AM – 11:00 PMTue9:30 AM – 11:00 PMWed9:30 AM – 11:00 PMThu9:30 AM – 11:00 PMFri9:30 AM – 12:00 AMSat11:00 AM – 12:00 AMSunClosed
What to order: Kafana Mornar, a Yugoslav relic at Dečanska 2, Beograd, provides a glimpse into the past with affordable meals ranging from 700–1,300 RSD ($6–$12). What to order: Whatever's on the daily lunch menu — this is a working journalists' canteen. Rakija and coffee between meals.
"Mornar is a buzzing relic of the Yugoslav era — indoor cigarette smoking included! A longtime favorite of local journalists for grabbing lunch or catching up over coffee and rakija."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
"Seasoned waiters in snow-white shirts zipping between tables when not talking with the regulars who seem to have blended with the 1970s decor."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
tabiji verdict: A few steps from Republic Square, Mornar is where Belgrade's journalists have met for decades. The 1970s decor is untouched, cigarette smoke hangs in the air, and the regulars look like they've been here since Tito. Closed Sundays.
💰 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14)
📍 Vuka Karadžića 11, Beograd 11000
📌 Google Maps →
🕐 Hours
Mon9:00 AM – 11:00 PMTue9:00 AM – 11:00 PMWed9:00 AM – 11:00 PMThu9:00 AM – 11:00 PMFri9:00 AM – 11:00 PMSat9:00 AM – 11:00 PMSun9:00 AM – 11:00 PM
What to order: Proleće, a socialist design gem at Vuka Karadžića 11, Beograd 11000, offers a retro dining experience for 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14). What to order: Ražnjići (shish kebabs) with a side of šopska salata. The streetside tables are perfect for people-watching on the pedestrian zone.
"Proleće has preserved its zinc bar, dark wood paneling and elegantly liveried waiters. Located in the pedestrian zone, its streetside tables are a great place for people watching."
— Lonely Planet · Belgrade Kafana Guide, 2024
tabiji verdict: A socialist-design enthusiast's dream — zinc bar, dark wood paneling, and waiters in elegant livery. Right around the corner from Knez Mihailova, Belgrade's main pedestrian street.
🕐 Hours
Mon8:00 AM – 11:00 PMTue8:00 AM – 11:00 PMWed8:00 AM – 11:00 PMThu8:00 AM – 11:00 PMFri8:00 AM – 11:00 PMSat8:00 AM – 11:00 PMSun8:00 AM – 11:00 PM
What to order: Kafana Suvobor, a ćevapi specialist at Kralja Petra 70, Beograd 11106, focuses on grilled minced meat, with prices between 600–1,200 RSD ($5–$11). What to order: Ćevapi — the website is literally cevapi.rs. This is what they do. Get them with kajmak and onions.
"Kafana Suvobor — their website is literally cevapi.rs. That tells you everything you need to know about what to order here."
— r/Belgrade · Eating Belgrade thread, 2025
tabiji verdict: When your website domain is cevapi.rs, you'd better make excellent ćevapi. They do. A no-frills neighborhood kafana on the historic Kralja Petra street, beloved by locals for its straightforward grill menu and honest prices.
FAQs
What is a kafana?
A kafana (plural: kafane) is a traditional Serbian tavern that serves as a restaurant, bar, and live music venue — often all at once. The word comes from the Turkish kahvehane (coffeehouse), dating back to when the Ottomans brought coffee to Belgrade in the 16th century. Today kafane serve hearty Serbian food, rakija (fruit brandy), Turkish coffee, beer, and wine. Many feature live tamburica or folk music, especially on weekend evenings. They're the social heart of Belgrade — places where people meet, celebrate, mourn, and argue over politics.
When is the best time to visit a kafana in Belgrade?
For food and a relaxed atmosphere, visit during lunch (12–3pm) or early dinner (6–8pm). For the full kafana experience with live music, Friday and Saturday evenings from 9pm onwards are best — many kafane have live bands starting around 9–10pm and the atmosphere builds until midnight or later. Thursday nights can also be lively. Avoid Monday evenings when some kafane are quieter or closed. Weekend afternoons are great for a leisurely meal with rakija.
What should I order at a kafana?
Start with rakija (fruit brandy — šljivovica/plum is the classic). For food: ćevapi (grilled minced meat sausages) with kajmak (clotted cream) and flatbread, pljeskavica (Serbian burger patty), Karađorđeva šnicla (breaded rolled veal stuffed with kajmak), mućkalica (spicy meat stew), and šopska salata (tomato, cucumber, onion with grated white cheese). For dessert, try baklava or tufahije (walnut-stuffed baked apples in syrup). Turkish coffee served with ratluk (Turkish delight) is a must.
Is Skadarlija worth visiting or is it a tourist trap?
Skadarlija is touristy — locals will tell you that — but it's not a trap. The food quality at Dva Jelena and Tri šešira is genuinely good, and the bohemian atmosphere with cobblestones, live tamburaši musicians, and historic murals is authentic to Belgrade's cultural heritage. Visit for at least one meal to experience the tradition, but also explore neighborhood kafane like Orašac, Stara Hercegovina, or Pavle Korcagin for the locals-only experience. The best approach: one Skadarlija evening for the scene, then branch out.
How much does a meal cost at a kafana in Belgrade?
Belgrade kafane are extremely affordable. Expect to pay 800–1,500 RSD ($7–$14 USD) for a generous main course, 300–500 RSD ($3–$5) for a large šopska salata, 200–400 RSD ($2–$4) for a shot of rakija, and 250–400 RSD ($2.50–$4) for a beer. A full meal with drinks for two people typically runs 3,000–5,000 RSD ($28–$46 USD). Even at the more upscale kafane, you'll struggle to spend more than $30 per person including drinks.
Do kafane have live music every night?
Not every night at every kafana. Skadarlija venues (Dva Jelena, Tri šešira) tend to have tamburaši musicians most evenings. Suburban kafane like LM Boem are famous for their weekend (Friday–Saturday) live music nights and usually require reservations. SFRJ Kafana typically has live bands on weekends. For the best live music kafana experience, go on a Friday or Saturday evening and arrive by 9pm. It's customary to tip musicians about 500 RSD per song request.
Are there vegetarian options at kafane?
Kafane are overwhelmingly meat-centric — this is Serbian food. However, most serve šopska salata, ajvar (roasted pepper spread), prebranac (baked beans), gibanica (cheese pie), and fried cheese or mushrooms. Srpska Kafana and some modern kafane have expanded their vegetarian options. If you're strictly vegetarian, kafane are doable but limited. For vegans, kafane are genuinely challenging — consider eating elsewhere or ordering sides and salads.
